Category: Porto

Posted in English, Europe, Porto, Portugal

Portugal – Day 5

Posted on by travellingleila

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April 19 – Friday

On the last day, we were very unlucky with the weather. Rain had been in the forecast all week, and it did come – fortunately, only in the afternoon.

We got up, had breakfast, and then made a second attempt to get into the Majestic Café and have coffee there. We got in, but there was nothing special about it – all its popularity is nothing more than tourist hype. A café like any other.

Then we tried to get into Livraria Lello – the most famous bookstore in Porto, said to have inspired the idea of Hogwarts. As is known, J.K. Rowling lived in Porto for a while, and it was supposedly in the Majestic Café that she wrote Harry Potter. To be honest, I can’t imagine how anyone could write in such a loud and pompous place, but then again, I’m not Rowling! We didn’t get into Livraria – same story, a huge queue. Later we found out that entry is paid and costs 5 euros, but we gave up anyway.

We decided to go shopping and went to the Via Rua Catarina shopping centre, where we did quite well. There are both local Portuguese brands and European ones. We also had lunch at the food court. And when we came out, it was already pouring rain. We had to buy umbrellas right then and there.

Somehow we ran back to the hotel and rested. In the evening, we had a light show planned in the centre, at the Clérigos Church. We left a little early, hoping to climb the Clérigos Tower first, but in such weather – barely making it to Clérigos in short dashes – we decided against climbing any towers.

I really liked the light show. It lasted for half an hour and was a kind of combination of old (baroque!) and new technologies – essentially a very spectacular and colorful digital animation with beautiful orchestral music.

In the evening, we had dinner with traditional Portuguese fado. The dinner included a starter, main course, dessert, and half a bottle of wine – everything was very tasty. I also really enjoyed the performance – such soulful romances.

Posted in English, Europe, Porto, Portugal

Portugal – Day 4

Posted on by travellingleila

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April 18, 2024 – Thursday

In the morning, after breakfast at our hotel, we went for a walk to the centre of Porto – we walked down to the river. On the way, we stopped at a church, but there was a service going on, so we left. Then we saw the Church of the Clérigos, where we plan to go tomorrow.

The Ribeira embankment was very, VERY crowded.

To kill time before our wine tour, we had lemonade on the embankment, and then took the funicular back up, planning to get to the famous Majestic Café and have coffee there. But the queue was so long that instead we went to a conceptual hipster coffee shop called Calma, where the coffee was very good.

Once again, we walked down to the embankment, crossed the bridge to the Gaia side, where we were supposed to have lunch. The first place we tried turned out to be closed, but that worked out well, because we found a great restaurant with a panoramic view of the river.

After lunch, we finally went on our wine tour. It was a walking tour, mainly focused, of course, on port wine. We visited three wineries. Our guide, Ricardo, talked about port wine in a very interesting and humorous way.

The first winery was Churchill’s, founded by the English. There, they showed us the different barrels used in making port. One type, ruby, is a red port aged in chestnut barrels to avoid oxidation when exposed to air. Another red port, tawny, is aged in oak barrels specifically to oxidize. There is also white port. The point is that port is a fortified wine, so 77% brandy is added to stop fermentation. Brandy can be added at different stages, which makes the wine sweeter or less sweet. We tried all three types of port there. We liked ruby a bit more than the other two.

The next winery was called Vasques de Carvalho. There, we were told that their barrels “mature” not here, but in the Douro Valley itself. We tried the same three types of port, and we liked them better here.

At the last winery, we tried only one port – tawny – but we didn’t like it at all, as it had a strong alcohol taste. But there, we also tried three table wines – rosé, white, and red – which we really liked. I don’t remember anything about these wines, except that they are blends, and wines made from a single grape variety are almost never found here. There are about 200 grape varieties in total.

We didn’t leave the tour very drunk, since we only took a couple of sips of each drink. After returning to the hotel and resting, we went out for dinner at a five-story food court and walked around.

Overall, Porto is very different from Lisbon. Maybe it doesn’t have such a distinctive character, but it’s quite charming. In some places, it’s grand, in others – shabby, and it’s clear that this is a port city.

Posted in English, Europe, Lisbon, Porto, Portugal

Portugal – Day 3

Posted on by travellingleila

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April 18, 2023 – Wednesday

We got up in the morning and, as usual, had breakfast. We were supposed to take a train to Porto at noon, but when we arrived at the station, we discovered that it didn’t exist – the train had been cancelled due to a strike, like all the 12-o’clock trains throughout the entire month. What can I say – wonderful. Even more wonderful was the fact that the app sold us the ticket without batting an eye and didn’t even notify us about the strike.

We had to buy tickets for a later train, at 15:30, and then spent a long time looking for a place to leave our luggage so we wouldn’t have to drag it around. We found one across the street from the station and went to get some coffee. But first, we wandered around Alfama, from where we made our way to Restauradores and had coffee there.

Then we returned to the station, boarded the train and, thank God, we were off. On the train, we encountered some American fellow passengers who couldn’t grasp that, in addition to the seat number on the ticket, you also have to check the carriage number – instead of trying to chase away people already sitting in a seat with the same number.

In the end, we arrived in Porto quite late – it was already around 7 p.m.

We got to the hotel by Uber and went out for dinner at a restaurant, where we once again ran into loud Americans, who talked non-stop at the next table all evening, and we learned their entire life story and all their family problems.