Kyoto – Travelling Leila

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31 May 2025

Today is our last day in Kyoto. We woke up very early again and had breakfast in a French café.

Since it was early, we decided to go to Gion again and take another look at the geisha quarter and the streets around the Yasaka Pagoda, which we hadn’t properly explored a couple of days ago when it was crowded and we were in a rush. We figured there would be fewer people at this time – and we were right. Of course, there were the occasional enthusiastic Chinese tourists who got up early and even dressed in kimonos to take photos before the crowds arrived. But overall, there weren’t many people, so we were able to enjoy the Yasaka Pagoda and the historic streets of Ninenzaka and Sannenzaka in relative peace.

However, we still didn’t manage to spend a lot of time there – we were feeling cold, and it also started to rain. I’ve actually been joking that the head of the local meteorological service should commit hara-kiri – the forecasts here are so unreliable that you almost need to do the opposite of what they tell you. For example, yesterday the forecast promised cool weather and rain, but not a drop fell – it was 26 degrees, hot and stuffy. And today, on the contrary, it promised 23–24 degrees, with sunshine, and zero chance of rain – but couldn’t even forecast an hour ahead, because it was grey and chilly, and the rain started almost immediately.

So we went back to the hotel to change clothes and grab an umbrella, and then we went our separate ways. I went to the Fushimi Inari Taisha Shrine, while Rena had already been there on her last visit and didn’t want to go a second time. Not surprising – the shrine is located on Mount Inari, and the main shrine is at the top. The whole round trip takes about two hours, so doing it once is probably enough.

The temple is famous for the more than ten thousand orange torii gates that line the entire route up and down the mountain, forming tunnels of gates you walk through. I arrived around mid-morning, and there was an absolute sea of people. Especially at the entrance to the first “corridor” of torii gates, there was a continuous flow. Everyone was trying to take photos, but there was hardly any space to move.

Apparently, people didn’t realize that the torii gates would continue all the way to the top of the mountain – or maybe they just didn’t feel like climbing there. Some were dressed in kimonos, some even in evening dresses – where would you go in heels or socks with flip-flops up a mountain?

To be honest, I wasn’t planning to go all the way to the top either. I thought I’d climb a little, take some photos of the gates from different angles, see a few shrines, and call it a day. But then, for some reason, I got caught up in the excitement – maybe it was the signs at each rest stop showing how much further to the summit. Especially that the higher you go, the fewer people there are. I was able to peacefully explore the shrines and the torii gates – for example, the back of each gate is covered in kanji. It might seem like some sacred texts, but it’s actually just the names of those who donated each gate – there are even a few rare inscriptions in Latin script. The route isn’t one straight path – there are forks leading to smaller, secondary shrines, and rest areas with toilets, a small shop, and an ice cream stand.

One route led up, the other down. In the end, very few people made it to the summit, so I could take photos in peace. By then, though, I was completely drenched in sweat – and that was despite the spitting rain and cool weather.

After the shrine, I was supposed to meet up with Rena for lunch at a ramen place – but there was a slight hitch. We didn’t align when we arrived and stood in the queue, so I ended up going in first and tried to save her a seat next to me, but they didn’t allow that – we had to sit separately. The concept of this (chain) restaurant is that visitors sit alone, separated from each other by plywood dividers. There’s also a divider between guests and staff – you just pass them a piece of paper with your order number and the desired spice level, noodle firmness, etc., and they place your ramen through a small window.

So, in the end, we didn’t sit next to each other – but it was fine. After lunch, we walked around the shops and bought some Korean cosmetics.

Then our tired legs started reminding us of themselves – and of all the previous days, each of which involved at least 20,000 steps. We had to find a café to sit down in – we found one in a small side street. In general, I have to say that all the little backstreets in Kyoto feel the same – I honestly couldn’t tell the street our hotel is on apart from another one a kilometre or two away.

After coffee, we went back to the hotel to rest a bit. And then it was already evening, so we headed to a recently opened izakaya, where we had all sorts of interesting dishes, like some kind of whelk in an unusual sauce, but also quite plain donburi with chicken and egg (a sort of chigirtma–plov à la Japonaise) – and drank fragrant sake.

After that, we continued the evening at an Irish pub we’d spotted earlier – but only briefly, since it turned out to be a bit of a dive. On a Saturday evening, there were hardly any people: there was a cheerful Japanese group celebrating something in the private room, and in the main area – just a couple of foreigners, plus us.

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29 May 2025

In the morning, we woke up still in Hiroshima, had a tasty but small sandwich breakfast at a nearby coffee shop, and immediately headed to the station to catch the Shinkansen to Kyoto.

We arrived in Kyoto around noon and took the subway to the station closest to our hotel. From there, we had to walk another 10 minutes with our suitcases along narrow and not particularly convenient streets – again with no sidewalks. There seem to be especially many streets like this in Kyoto.

The city feels more uniform than Tokyo, where, as I’ve already said, each district had its own vibe. Generally, here it’s clear that Kyoto is an ancient capital, and this status is being preserved in every possible way – for example, I don’t think there are any skyscrapers at all.

Our hotel isn’t one of the traditional ryokans you see all around Kyoto, but it’s still quite interesting. For instance, they don’t clean the rooms daily (they’ll do it every four days), but they’ll take out the rubbish if you ask, and all essentials like towels, toiletries, and tea bags are available in the hallway for you to take as needed.

After dropping off our luggage, we were already pretty hungry and headed out to eat some delicious assorted nigiri sushi.

We didn’t have much time left before our scheduled tea ceremony, so we dashed through the historic Gion district, especially the geisha quarter and the famous Ninenzaka street with stairs. We didn’t see any geisha or maiko, though – they usually appear around 6 p.m., and we were there during the day. By the way, I’ve read that Kyoto’s authorities had to ban photographing geisha in Gion because tourists were behaving too rudely and inconsiderately.

There were indeed a lot of tourists in the area. The streets are charming and atmospheric, and they would have been perfect if there had been a few less people. There were also loads of tourists dressed in kimonos. Kimono rental services are very popular here in Kyoto – they dress you up, do your hair and makeup, and you can stroll around and take photos in full traditional splendour. But more on that later! For now, I’ll just say that most of the people walking around in kimonos in the middle of the day aren’t Japanese – they’re tourists, and mostly Chinese (which is probably why they’re often mistaken for locals).

As I said, we were short on time, so we had to rush back at full speed, since we thought we were running late. For instance, at Nishiki Market, which was on our route, we practically bowled people over trying to get through. But as it turned out, there was no need to hurry. In fact, we ended up sitting and waiting. And soon it became clear why. The tea ceremony included dressing in a kimono, and that turned out to be quite a process!

A kimono, especially the women’s version, is not something you can get dressed into yourself. As someone who’s loved Japan since childhood and used to dress up in random robes pretending they were kimonos, I’ve always dreamed of wearing a real one – but I had no idea how complex it actually is. Therefore, there’s really no point in buying one for yourself – it’s not just that there’s nowhere to wear it, but it’s also not something you could put on without help.

First, we were given tabi socks – the kind with a separate big toe – and led to the dressing room. There, we put all our clothes into special bags, undressed down to our underwear, and put on the provided undergarment. Then they helped us into the under-kimono and asked us to choose the outer one. I picked a red one with flowers. After that, we chose a thick obi belt to match, a ribbon (still not sure what it was for), and a decorative cord. Then they dressed us properly, layering and tying everything according to tradition. Next, we went to another woman who did our hair quickly and added accessories we’d selected. It was all very efficient – in about half an hour, we’d been transformed into fairly convincing Japanese ladies!

Then came the tea ceremony itself, held with a group of others who were also dressed in kimonos. First, they showed us how to wash ourselves at temple entrances – water over the left hand, then the right, then over the ladle’s handle itself. Inside the tea room, the only downside was that we had to sit on our knees, which quickly became uncomfortable and numbing. But otherwise, it was fascinating. The lovely host explained the rules of the ceremony and the signs and gestures of hospitality – for example, she placed a fan in front of her to symbolically draw a respectful line between herself and the guests, then removed it. Next followed a whole ritual around cleaning the tea utensils. We were given cups with matcha powder and little green sweets shaped like maple leaves – they tasted kind of like halva. We learned how to pour hot water over the matcha, whisk it until frothy, and then drink it along with the “halva”.

After the ceremony, we were told we could walk around the city in our kimonos, as long as we returned everything by 6 p.m. We decided not to go far – it’s hard to walk far in those undersized flip-flops (they weren’t the traditional wooden geta, but still not the most practical footwear). We wandered around a bit, found a small shrine where we took some great photos, and decided that was enough and we were ready to return the kimonos.

The whole experience was really enjoyable – being dressed so carefully, wearing the kimono, and seeing how great it looked., so we were very happy with it.

After all that running around and not-so-filling meals during the day, we decided to make up for it and went to the food court under Kyoto Tower. We devoured a portion of delicious gyoza, followed by fluffy and no less delicious Japanese soufflé pancakes. Kyoto Tower is right across from the train station, so after dinner we hung around the area, bought some souvenirs and sweets, went up to the top of the station building for a view of the evening city, and finally headed back to the hotel – it had started to drizzle, though the air was still stuffy. I really liked Kyoto, it has a pleasant atmosphere, noticeably more people than in Hiroshima, and a lot of tourists.

Category: Kyoto

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